Cyclomethicones are restricted by the EU and consumers demand silicone-free products. Here’s a strategic overview of how to replace cyclomethicones with Hemisqualane.
It may seem like you’re facing a huge challenge around the replacement of D5. First of all, there’s no 1 to 1 drop-in replacement. Secondly, when reformulating, not only do you have to balance how the formulation feels or performs but you also have to take into consideration cost, naturality, social responsibility and safety. With all of these challenges, we propose a two-fold solution for successful D5 replacement: achieving equivalent benefits and meeting consumer demand.
Achieving Equivalent Benefits
D5 is used largely across color cosmetics, antiperspirants, and suncare due to its wide range of benefits, such as:
It’s unique sensory attributes which are directly related to the aesthetics of a formulation
It’s spreadability which promotes even coverage and even application of a product
The volatility of D5 which contributes to some of the sensory effects that we see as well as contributing to extended wear
D5 is well known for its ability to remove long-wear and waterproof makeup
Neossance Hemisqualane achieves equivalency in each of these categories:
Hemisqualane actually has an excellent play time as it works in 2 ways: it quickly evaporates off the skin and, almost at the same time, absorbs into the skin, giving the perception of volatility
Both consumer and expert evaluations demonstrate hemisqualane performs equivalent to D5 in long wear, sensory aspects, play time and even coverage
Neossance Hemisqualane has superior make-up removal properties
D5 is well known for its ability to remove long-wear and waterproof makeup
Any reformulation or new application launches should focus on achieving equivalent performance with consumers. For example, an expert panel found no significant difference in visual and tactile properties between liquid foundations with Neossance Hemisqualane and D5. A consumer study of 60 respondents evaluating a daily moisturizer with SPF with Neossance Hemisqualane versus D5 also confirmed equivalency in characteristics like non-greasy texture, even coverage, and easy application. To learn more, request a technical consultation or download our formulation guide.
Meeting Consumer Demands
Consumers are rewarding brands that launch silicone-free products with high performance. In a consumer study with 60 participants, 80% said they would switch to an antiperspirant with Hemisqualane if they knew their current product contained silicones.
Current alternatives are either petrochemically derived or derived from non-sustainable plant sources like palm-oil. Hemisqualane is sustainably sourced from sugarcane and our manufacturing process reduces C02 emission compared to traditional petrochemical processes and respects biodiversity.
Interested in learning more? Request our full data report or request a sample.
References:
In Helsinki, on June 11, 2016 the ECHA Committee for Socio-Economic Analysis concluded to restrict the use of D4 and D5 in wash-off personal care products to a maximum of 0.1%. The restriction was set to be implemented by January 2020