An Innovative Light Emollient with High Spreadability, Ideal for Natural Cosmetic Formulations

Amyris: delivering sustainable solutions for a growing world

Founded in 2003 by a group of scientists from the University of California, Berkeley, Amyris uses breakthrough science and an innovative business model to address global sustainability challenges. Amyris utilizes yeast to develop and manufacture high performing, cost competitive and sustainable alternatives to chemical and petroleum-based products. From its original technology for anti-malarial treatments, to its recentlyintroduced renewable jet fuel, to sustainable alternatives for the cosmetics and personal care industry, Amyris is setting new standards for a more sustainable world. Amyris was awarded a prestigious Presidential Green Chemistry Award from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

Neossance™ Hemisqualane: Amyris’s latest renewable cosmetic innovation.

Amyris’s cosmetic products offer the Neossance brand promise of peace of mind: plant-derived, renewable feedstock, reliable long-term supply and stable price, consistent quality, robust manufacturing process and compliance with many international sustainability certifications.

Amyris is transforming the cosmetic industry by providing sustainable ingredients with superior performance. Neossance Squalane was Amyris’s first thriving cosmetic ingredient, which is currently formulated into over 300 cosmetic brands. Amyris recently introduced a new innovative emollient – Neossance Hemisqualane – that builds on the successful value proposition established by the Neossance brand. Hemisqualane is Amyris’s latest answer to the growing demand for products that are derived from sustainable sources.

Neossance Hemisqualane is a non-polar C15 hydrocarbon featuring high spreadability and a very light sensorial feel that is ideal for natural cosmetic formulations. It is a perfect alternative to petroleum-based paraffins and silicone ingredients. It provides an elegant and light, non-greasy, non-tacky texture, leaving skin and hair soft and smooth. It is non-irritating, nonsensitizing and non-comedogenic. Hemisqualane is extremely versatile and expands the Neossance brand to reach a broader application space.

Proven Performance

An ingredient of choice for HAIR CARE formulations Neossance Hemisqualane has good slip and a soft after-feel, both critical attributes for conditioners and styling products. The ingredient offers great spreadability and uniform application, leaving hair smooth and soft without weighing it down. It also protects hair from color degradation, thermal damage and reduces frizz.

Performance tests were carried out and support hemisqualane’s superior performance in hair care applications, demonstrating its ability to:

  • Reduce frizz (Figures 1 & 2)
  • Provide color protection (Figure 3)
  • Deliver heat protection and prevent damage
  • Provide easier combing
  • Leave hair silky and smooth

High spreadability for SKIN CARE applications

Neossance Hemisqualane offers excellent performance for skin care based on its high-spreadability and desirable texture. Its soft, light and silky sensorial properties make it a versatile ingredient that performs well in many skin care formulations. The spreadability of an emollient plays a key role in skin care products. In sunscreens, foundations and body-creams, the emollient contributes to fast migration, allowing even application. Hemisqualane exhibits the highest spreadability among a broad range of competitive ingredients. As illustrated in Figure 4, it has a higher spreadability compared to Dimethicone 6cps, Cyclopentasiloxane, and Isohexadecane.

Superior cleansing properties

Neossance Hemisqualane demonstrates better cleansing ability compared to Isododecane (Figure 5). The excellent cleansing properties of Neossance Hemisqualane result from its low friction coefficient/low viscosity and its high compatibility and affinity towards all tested makeup items (foundations, lipsticks, and mascaras). One of the best-known hydrocarbon oils for cleansing properties is Isododecane; however it comes from a non-sustainable petroleum source. Hemisqualane is a superior-performing cleansing ingredient that is renewably-sourced.

Multiple Applications

Neossance Hemisqualane is a high quality, sustainable emollient delivering enhanced performance for a variety of cosmetic applications, including:


Soft & smooth

The soft after-feel of Neossance Hemisqualane leaves hair soft and silky without weighing it down. The ingredient is ideal for hair-conditioners and styling products, opening up new possibilities for hair care performance.


Luxurious & light textures

Neossance Hemisqualane is easy to incorporate into emulsions, creating luxurious and light textures with a silky after-feel. The emollient demonstrates new opportunities for innovative, sustainable products with superior performance for skin care applications.


Silky touch

Neossance Hemisqualane facilitates smooth and even application for lipsticks and foundations due to its high spreadability. It also possesses excellent cleansing properties for makeup removal applications, including tough targets like waterproof mascaras.


Pleasing after-feel
The high spreadability of Neossance Hemisqualane makes it an ideal ingredient for deodorant, especially in roll-on applications. Its non-irritating and nonsensitizing properties with light textures contribute to a pleasing after-feel for body care products.


High spreadability

Neossance Hemisqualane offers unique properties for sun care products. Its solubility and power to dissolve crystalline UV filters make it an ingredient of choice. The ingredient’s high spreadability makes it a perfect selection for sunscreen products, offering a smooth and even application for every use especially for spray-on products.




Neossance Hemisqualane is a breakthrough sustainable emollient with high spreadability and a great sensorial profile that offers the Neossance brand promise of peace of mind. It is the second renewable and innovative cosmetic ingredient offered by Amyris under its Neossance brand. It builds on the Neossance promise for products that are derived from plant sugar, renewably-sourced and ECOCERT-approved.

Amyris is committed to delivering high-impact sustainable products that do not compromise performance, value or cost. Not only has Amyris been building on this promise since its inception, but it is committed to constant improvement and expansion of its commercial products to address the planet’s growing challenges. Amyris is committed to sustainable products that enable a more sustainable future.